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Weekly Contest #324
There was a pattern. First, the roaring cold of the North Atlantic as he plunged beneath the surface. Then, the silence after the wave had rolled down his back. Always, he would hang in that momentary lightness in the back of the wave, that peculiar moment where he was still underwater but above sea level. That halfway space, neither here nor there… Almost immediately, the illusion would be shattered. He would break through the back of the wave, back arched, surfboard held tightly between blood-drained knuckles. The natural inclination was t...
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