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Bangkok By Heart - Discovering the Pulse of the City Through the Eyes of an Expat Family

By Tené Closson-Prager

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An enticing invitation to explore the culture, cuisine, and people of Bangkok, Thailand

Synopsis

Bangkok By Heart: Discovering the Pulse of the City Through the Eyes of an Expat Family is a thoughtfully crafted travel guide offering a nuanced perspective on one of Asia’s most vibrant cities. Written by an author who lived in Bangkok for five years, this guide delves into the heart of the city, going beyond typical advice.

This quick read captures the energy of Bangkok’s markets, the serenity of its temples, and the richness of its festivals. It provides tips on navigating the intricate transport system, family-friendly activities, and advice on blending with the locals.

What sets this guide apart is its focus on everyday life in Bangkok. Readers will find detailed accounts of local customs, culinary delights, and lesser-known attractions only an insider would know. The guide also addresses the challenges and rewards of adapting to life in a foreign country, offering candid reflections and advice for other expat families or long-term travelers.

More than just a travel manual, Bangkok By Heart is a heartfelt tribute to a city that profoundly impacted the author. It invites readers to explore Bangkok not just as visitors, but as temporary locals, fostering a deeper appreciation of its many layers and hidden gems.

Tene Closson-Prager’s 2024 book: Bangkok By Heart by, provides a deep compilation of flavors, sights, and unique shopping experiences available in Bangkok, Thailand. Organized like a traveler’s guide, the book includes hand-picked quintessential Thai venues and experiences, from the various floating markets to historic temples and national landmarks.


If you are looking for the best beaches, hot spots, hotels, and eateries, Bangkok By Heart has you covered. If food is the way to your heart, this is a food lover’s must to guide you on culinary adventures around the city.


The guide also provides details on public transportation, which includes: (BTS & MRT) trains, taxis, taxi bikes, river ferries, and tuk-tuks, but don't forget about the Thai classic, songthaew or mini bus.


Tene Closson-Prager does an excellent job of highlighting the spiritual side of Bangkok. Buddhism is a major aspect of Thai culture and is felt in countless ways from awe-inspiring temples to city green spaces, and even the tradition of rising for the king before movies and events.


I love the section on common words. Politeness and courtesy are big deals in Thailand. It also helps to know: Turn Left: líieow sáai  & Turn Right: líieow kwăa.


The author also provides practical advice for planning your Thai adventure, including: "Best Times to Visit and Seasonal Considerations Bangkok" – rainy season, very wet, and "Essentials to pack" – yes you should bring that.


The chapter on elephants got me. Symbol of Thailand, the elephant chang is depicted in fashion and art throughout Thailand. Hopefully, we can support the elephants without asking them to support us on their backs.


Possible areas that could make the book even better:

1. I love the authors’ excitement and passion for Bangkok, but there are a few passages that are difficult to read on a single breath. Slow down, take a breath, and tell us more.

2. If a picture paints a thousand words, the book would benefit with the addition of photos showing the vibrant sights and colors of Bangkok.


In summary, Tene Closson-Prager’s new travel guide Bangkok By Heart is an enticing invitation to explore the culture, cuisine, and people of Bangkok, Thailand. As a seven-year expat of Bangkok, I give this book four out of five stars (4 of 5) and gladly recommend it as an excellent companion to anyone planning an adventure in the “Land of Smiles.”

Reviewed by

Oh sure, you'll read this, but you won't leave a comment, fine. D.R. Martin is the mind behind the Grim Chronicles series, which he dreamt up in Bangkok, TH. Youngest of 8 kids in a navy family, he has a BA in Film, an MA in Media, and lives with his wife, teenage son, and two cats in Chicago-land.

Synopsis

Bangkok By Heart: Discovering the Pulse of the City Through the Eyes of an Expat Family is a thoughtfully crafted travel guide offering a nuanced perspective on one of Asia’s most vibrant cities. Written by an author who lived in Bangkok for five years, this guide delves into the heart of the city, going beyond typical advice.

This quick read captures the energy of Bangkok’s markets, the serenity of its temples, and the richness of its festivals. It provides tips on navigating the intricate transport system, family-friendly activities, and advice on blending with the locals.

What sets this guide apart is its focus on everyday life in Bangkok. Readers will find detailed accounts of local customs, culinary delights, and lesser-known attractions only an insider would know. The guide also addresses the challenges and rewards of adapting to life in a foreign country, offering candid reflections and advice for other expat families or long-term travelers.

More than just a travel manual, Bangkok By Heart is a heartfelt tribute to a city that profoundly impacted the author. It invites readers to explore Bangkok not just as visitors, but as temporary locals, fostering a deeper appreciation of its many layers and hidden gems.

Chapter 1: The Heartbeat of Bangkok—Its Bustling Streets 


The Symphony of Street Food 


Immersing yourself in a culinary journey involves wandering its busy streets, visiting the bustling local markets, and delighting in the aromas of spices and herbs found there, as well as taking a tour of the most famous restaurants whose innovative preparation techniques will leave you dazzled! 

However, we must highlight the utter importance of discovering and exploring every aspect of street food. This is where you should come if you want to embark upon a gastronomic journey teeming with fragrant delights, vivid ingredients, and an enriching cultural ambiance

History of Bangkoks Street Food Culture

The history of Bangkok's vibrant street food dates back to the 17th century, which was a time when the inhabitants of that "modest commercial center" lacked the time or resources to prepare home-cooked food. So, food vendors set up makeshift stalls where they offered simple, inexpensive dishes to their diners. 

Thus began a tradition that would later become a cultural and social phenomenon that would be an essential part of the construction of the city's collective identity. 

As time went by and the city evolved, the street food became more varied and of better quality. The migration of people from different parts of Thailand and accelerated urbanization led to a bigger demand for these fast, cheap, and enjoyable dishes. 

Little by little, the city would gradually become a conglomeration of crowded, informal markets along roadsides, train stations, and even on river boats and canals. Vendors' stalls began to fill the main streets and emblematic tourist sites, becoming the protagonists of this new cultural scene. 

Nowadays, you can find both locals and foreigners delighting themselves with the wide range of flavors they find in street food. 

Street food in Bangkok today is more than a culinary experience—it represents a way of life for the locals. It is a space that crosses socioeconomic and cultural barriers, bringing together colleagues, governors, students, food vendors, etc. 

The gastronomic offerings are near-infinite, and the flavors vary from traditional dishes to fusions with foreign influences. Among the products that you can find are snacks, fruits, ready-to-eat meals, desserts, and beverages made with seasonal regional ingredients. Some of the delicacies you can try are: Pad Thai, spring rolls, delicious soups such as Tom Yum soup and Tom Kha Gai, sweet and spicy stir-fry, and exotic fruits such as durian and rambutan. 

So go ahead and live this experience that will not only satisfy your palate but also your spirit.  


Best Floating Markets 

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

Nestled in Ratchaburi, Thailand, this bustling aquatic bazaar is best reached by a scenic taxi ride or an organized tour from Bangkok. Revel in a vibrant parade of boats from 7:00 AM to 5:00 PM daily, where vendors offer a kaleidoscope of local fruits, vegetables, and tantalizing street food.


Amphawa Floating Market

Located in Samut Songkhram, Amphawa springs to life each weekend from Friday to Sunday, 10:00 AM to 9:30 PM. This charming market not only offers traditional market fare but also hosts an enchanting evening firefly tour, creating a mesmerizing experience under the stars.


Taling Chan Floating Market

Just a stone's throw from the heart of Bangkok at 333 Chak Phra Rd, Taling Chan offers a delightful respite on weekends, from 7:30 AM to 6:00 PM. Accessible by taxi or a short ride on the Blue Line MRT to Bang Khun Non Station, followed by a shuttle bus, this market blends the allure of fresh seafood and local delicacies with canal-side dining.


Khlong Lat Mayom Floating Market

Tucked away at 30/1 Bang Ramat Rd in Taling Chan, Bangkok, this lesser-known market is open Saturdays and Sundays from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM. Reach it by BTS to Bang Wa station, followed by a brief taxi journey. It's a verdant oasis offering a peaceful shopping experience with a personal touch.


Bang Nam Pheung Floating Market

Positioned close to the heart of Bangkok in the lush 'Lung of Bangkok' at Bua Bueng Phatthana, Bang Kobua, this quaint market runs from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM on weekends. Its proximity to the city makes it a convenient, yet serene getaway with an array of local eats and handcrafted goods.


Tha Kha Floating Market

Situated in Amphawa, Samut Songkhram, Tha Kha is known for its serene setting and traditional charm. Open on weekends from 6:00 AM to 3:00 PM, this market is a portal to the past where locals in wooden rowboats trade agricultural goods under the shade of lush greenery, accessible by taxi or local boat.


Each of these markets offers a unique glimpse into Thai culture, presenting a vibrant tapestry of colors, scents, and sounds, where visitors can immerse themselves in the local way of life through food, crafts, and the gentle chaos of riverside commerce.



Best Night Markets

Rod Fai Market (Srinakarin): This market is known for its vast collection of vintage collectibles and antiques and is a Mecca for retro lovers. It's located behind Seacon Square on Srinakarin Road, operating from Thursday to Sunday, 5 PM to 1 AM .


Rod Fai Market (Ratchada): This is a more accessible version of the original Rod Fai Market mentioned above, situated near the Cultural Center MRT Station. It's known for its convivial atmosphere and street food offerings. It's open Thursday through Sunday, from 5 PM to midnight .


Jodd Fairs Night Market: Boasting over 700 stalls, this food lover's paradise features everything from fresh seafood to international cuisines. It is located on Rama IX Road and is open daily from 4 PM to midnight .


Indy Night Market: Located across the river in the Thonburi district, it is popular among locals and offers food, live music, and shopping. It operates daily from 4 PM to midnight .


Asiatique The Riverfront: Combines a night bazaar and a mall environment beside the Chao Phraya River. It's excellent for shopping and dining, open daily from 11 AM to midnight .


Sai Tai Mai Center Night Market: Next to the new Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal, Sai Tai is perfect for enjoying nightlife with a mix of shopping, local food, and bars. It's easy to access and provides a varied shopping experience .


Best Market in Bangkok Overall


Chatuchak Weekend Market: The Chatuchak Weekend Market, also known locally as JJ Market, this iconic destination began operations in 1942 at a different site and relocated to its present location in the Phahonyothin area in 1982. It is one of the world's largest, covering 35 acres with over 15,000 booths. 


This vast marketplace is a treasure trove, featuring items from every region of Thailand, including vintage clothing, antiques, handmade crafts, furniture, art, and an extensive variety of food and drink options. 


Reaching the market is convenient via public transport. Visitors using the Skytrain (BTS) should alight at Mo Chit station, while those on the subway (MRT) can exit at Chatuchak Park station. Both stops are just a short stroll away from the market entrance. 


Operating hours for the market are Saturdays and Sundays from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM, offering a full array of sections. On Fridays, it opens for wholesalers from 6:00 PM until midnight, and the Plant Market runs on Wednesdays and Thursdays from 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM.  


Exploring Chatuchak is a must for anyone looking to immerse themselves in local culture and navigate through a maze of stalls brimming with distinctive items. It's the ideal spot to find gifts for loved ones. Haggling is part of the experience here, so it's advisable to negotiate and not settle for the initial asking price. More than just a shopping venue, this market is vital to Bangkok's identity, offering a vibrant glimpse into the city's cultural and historical essence.







Chatuchak is by far the most impressive, albeit overwhelming, but each market in Bangkok provides a distinct flavor of local culture, from the hunt for retro treasures and antiques at markets like Rod Fai to the delightful array of gourmet food stalls and vibrant live music scenes found at places like Asiatique and Jodd Fairs. These markets are not just shopping destinations; they're vibrant cultural hubs that offer a glimpse into the heart of Thai daily life, making them essential stops for visitors.



Night markets have a rich history, particularly in Asian cultures. They originated as informal vendor gatherings, where people would sell goods and food in the cooler evening hours. This tradition has evolved into a bustling night-time economy that supports local artisans, cooks, and small business owners. In many cities, night markets are vital to the local economy, providing income for many families and playing a crucial role in the preservation of local traditions and culinary practices.


Supporting these markets is crucial not only for economic reasons but also for cultural preservation. They offer a platform for local artisans to showcase their crafts and for culinary traditions to thrive. By visiting these markets, tourists and locals alike contribute to sustaining the vibrancy and diversity of Bangkok's cultural landscape, ensuring that these rich traditions continue to flourish for future generations.









Navigating the Citys Veins: Transportation Secrets

Due to Bangkok's population density, it is logical to think that traffic can be a bit hectic for the city's inhabitants. With the main roads constantly filled with colorful cars and cabs, it is best to opt for another type of transportation to save time and hassle. Crossing the street can be daunting and dangerous. When in doubt, cross when a street vendor is crossing.

The following are some of the most useful alternatives for getting around Bangkok.  If you have a stroller or are in a wheelchair do not expect for elevators or any form of assistance to be readily available, so be prepared.

Modes of Transportation in Bangkok

BTS: The Skytrain is usually one of the most commonly used means of transportation in crowded areas such as Sukhumvit Road, where this train connects you with different points of the city. Siam station is one of the main stations where the Sukhumvit (light green) and Silom (dark green) lines connect. The waiting time between each train is five to ten minutes, and the opening hours are from 5:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.

MRT: This subway is just as useful as BTS but slower. It has two lines: the Blue Line and the Purple Line. Tao Poon station connects both lines. Trains run every five to ten minutes and depart from 6:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.

River Taxis: Although they are an economical and useful means of transportation to avoid traffic, it is not very advisable to use these boats if you prefer to avoid the chaotic loading and unloading at the docks or some confusion regarding the color system that identifies each type of boat. However, it is worth mentioning that there are also tourist boats which can be very enjoyable. If you are looking for a different perspective of the city, then this is the transportation for you. 

Tuk-tuks: These three-wheeled vehicles could offer a fun but less safe way to get around Bangkok. If you choose this option, you should beware of possible scams and take the necessary precautions. Using these to get from one end of a long street to the other is a good way to enjoy them.

Motorbikes: Although these are used as a major mode of transportation, be cautious for obvious reasons. Helmets are not provided. They have the ability to weave in and out of traffic which makes these vehicles very popular for commuters.  

Avoiding Common Mistakes in Transportation

It is common when visiting a new place that mishaps may arise. Or that due to a lack of knowledge of the culture, you may not have the necessary information to make proper use of the means of transportation and thus take full advantage of them. 

In this section, we will provide you with the necessary advice to avoid uncomfortable situations:

Respect the seats reserved for monks: As in other countries, it is very typical to find seats reserved for the elderly, disabled, or pregnant women. Here, it is very important to respect this custom; otherwise, you may be called to attention. Always pay attention to the signs and follow the indications. 

Avoid confusing the two airports: Make sure your flight departs from the correct airport. Bangkok has two airports: Suvarnabhumi (BKK) and Don Mueang (DMK). Check the map carefully. 

Do not overestimate the safety of road transport: Traffic accidents in Bangkok are a daily occurrence. Unfortunately, people drive as they want and do not follow road rules. In case you choose to take tuk-tuks, take good care of your belongings to avoid theft or unnecessary detours.

If you are going to take a cab, preferably use an app like Grab. This way, you will have a fixed price, and will not have to explain your destination to a driver.

Keep your change: Many ticket vending machines for trains only accept coins so if you don't have them on hand, you will have to wait in long lines for the cashier or for machines that do accept them. 

Purchase a BTS or MRT card so you can easily swipe your card and get directly on the train.

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About the author

Meet Tené, a dynamic new author whose journey is as compelling as her 3 books. Her personal life saw a decade-long IVF struggle, culminating in the birth of her son. Her family then spent 5 enriching years in Bangkok. Her writing blends humor and emotion, celebrating joy through life's challenges. view profile

Published on April 15, 2024

10000 words

Genre:Education & Reference

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