A story of a teenage boy trying to come to terms with his parents separation and the impact it will have on his life.
Fifteen-year-old Jack McHale has an idyllic life. He surfs daily off Newport Beach, where he lives in a comfortable home with his career-driven parents and his brothers, James (17) and Kai (13).
A dreamer and a musician, it’s their shared passion for music that draws Jack closest to his father. When his parents split up, it's Jack who’s hit hardest. How could his father abandon them like this? Jack's a talented surfer. It’s his escape. He's not interested in surfing at a high level like his two brothers. But when Jack ignores his absent father's safety instructions, and a solo surfing expedition goes dangerously wrong, he discovers just how unshakeable his bond with his brothers will always be.
Jack confronts his anger at his father and his despair over his family breakdown. But Cass Garcia soon pulls his heart in a new direction, sparking the embers of first love. A rebellious surfer girl, Jack admires her adventurous spirit, but her risk-taking leads him into dangerous situations. Jack has to choose between a life or death situation.
It was the Spring of '89 when my parents announced they were separating. It was the toughest time of my life. Disappointment coursed through me as their marriage fell apart because our family would never be whole again. It was broken, fractured, and I hated it!
I was angry and scared, unknowing of what might happen. It was a devastating blow to us all: James, my seventeen-year-old brother, Kai, thirteen, and me, Jack McHale. As I watched things unfold in front of me, I was too devastated to think about what our parents' separation might mean for us, our family. Then, when Dad left to live somewhere else, I knew our lives would never be the same again.
Dad wasn't home for my fifteenth birthday. He was away on business. But he and the rest of the family had gotten me a combined gift—a new surfboard. Not just any board, though. It was the Bonzer five-fin surfboard! I couldn't believe my eyes. Five fins! It was the board I'd dreamt about since seeing it displayed in the surf shop window. Now it was all mine. I couldn't wait to use it. I decided to hit the waves early the next morning. In my excitement, I didn't check the morning forecast, so I was ill-prepared for any potential changes in the weather. It was a terrible mistake.
The alarm sounded at 6:00 a.m. I threw back the bedcover and leaped out of bed, keen to hit the waves. I tiptoed down the stairs so I would not disturb those still sleeping. As I stepped out onto the porch, the crisp morning air clung to my skin and sent a shiver down my spine. I slipped into my wetsuit and pulled the zipper up my back. I picked up my board, jumped down from the front porch onto the cool sand, and jogged towards the water. In my excitement, I didn't take into account how dangerous the surf was
I dived onto my board and paddled out past where the waves were breaking. The ocean was extremely choppy. Maybe not the best for surfing, but I needed to be out there. I sat up on my board and looked out at the horizon. Dark and foreboding clouds formed a border just above it. As I turned to get into position, I looked up too late to see an enormous wave hanging menacingly above me, preparing to crush me with all the might it could muster.
I managed a deep breath before it engulfed me. It hit me with such force that my body was shocked, powerless. I rolled over and over. The force snapped my ankle leash and sent my board spinning over my head, away from my grasp. I escaped the wave's grip and struggled to the surface for air. I tried to swim after my board but got caught in a rip current, which dragged me further out. I kicked hard, but it was useless. For the first time in my life, I was scared I might die. No board, no nothing.
I looked towards the beach. It was empty and distant. My board had vanished from sight. I spat out saltwater. I knew I had to swim with the strong current towards the white foam in the distance. If I could get there, I would be safe. I took another breath and swam as hard as my arms would allow. Too late. Another wave swallowed me up just when I was within reach of the white foam. All I could hear was its roar and evil laughter, like it was enjoying my plight.
The sea had gone from rough to wild, one thundering wave after another pounding me again and again. I felt like I was trapped in a washing machine. I struggled again to get back to the surface and breathe, but I was exhausted. My arms felt like lead. My lungs cried out for air. Which way was up? My mind raced. I imagined my lifeless body being washed up on the shore for some random person to stumble across. Never surf alone, son. How many times had he said that before he left us? Another wave pounded me, flipping me over, but something clicked inside. No, I thought. The waves can laugh at me, pound me all they want, but I'm tougher than they think I am. I won't surrender.
I kicked hard. It worked. I shot up and broke through the surface of the water. My lungs gulped in the air. I tried to yell for help, but no sound came out. Instead, a rush of saltwater filled my mouth and ran down my throat. I choked and coughed to get it out. My body wanted to give up as another wave rolled me over and its powerful undertow pulled me further out to sea.
My surf training kicked in. Calm your mind, Jack. Relax your body. But it was hard. My thoughts raced as my body thrashed, trying to orient itself in the rolling sea. If I'd listened to Dad's advice, I wouldn't be in this mess. I'm going to die out here, never to see my family or friends again. Again, I heard Dad's voice. Focus, Jack. You know what to do — just do it!
It was a strange sensation, closing my eyes, holding my breath, and letting my body go limp. Floating below the water's surface in complete silence. It stilled my mind and gave my muscles time to reset enough that I could summon my strength again. I opened my eyes. It was time to kick hard and propel myself up towards the surface. As I shot upwards, a hand broke through the surface of the water, reaching down to me. Am I hallucinating? I mustered the extra strength I needed, reached up, and grasped the hand. It was real...